Ingredients

• 3 egg yolks
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice, barely warmed
• 8 tbsp. butter, melted
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• dash pepper

Preparation

For hollandaise: Heat the butter to bubbling but not brown and set aside. Put yolks, lemon, salt, and pepper in the blender, and whirl at high speed for 30 seconds. Continue blending as you remove the blender lid and begin to pour in the hot butter, at first very slowly by droplets, then in a steady thin stream. Serve immediately.

For bearnaise: Boil together 1/4 c. dry white wine, 1/4 c. white wine vinegar, 1/2 tsp. dried tarragon, and 1 tbsp. minced onion or scallion until reduced to 2 tbsp. Let cool. Use this 2 tbsp. to replace the lemon juice, and increase the butter to 10-12 tbsp.

Ingredients

For cassoulet:

• 3 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only)
• 4 medium carrots, halved lengthwise and cut into 1-inch-wide pieces
• 3 celery ribs, cut into 1-inch-wide pieces
• 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1/4 cup olive oil
• 4 thyme sprigs
• 2 parsley sprigs
• 1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
• 3 (19-ounce) cans cannellini or Great Northern beans, rinsed and drained
• 1 quart water

For garlic crumbs:

• 4 cups coarse fresh bread crumbs from a baguette
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley

Preparation

Make cassoulet:

Halve leeks lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces, then wash well and pat dry.

[To add 8 oz. bacon, slice, then fry until fat has rendered. Then add veggies and proceed with the recipe, omitting the 1/4 c. olive oil.]

Cook leeks, carrots, celery, and garlic in oil with herb sprigs, bay leaf, cloves, and 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden, about 15 minutes. Stir in beans, then water, and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until carrots are tender but not falling apart, about 30 minutes.

Make garlic crumbs while cassoulet simmers:

Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.

Toss bread crumbs with oil, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper in a bowl until well coated. Spread in a baking pan and toast in oven, stirring once halfway through, until crisp and golden, 12 to 15 minutes.

Cool crumbs in pan, then return to bowl and stir in parsley.

Finish cassoulet:

Discard herb sprigs and bay leaf. Mash some of beans in pot with a potato masher or back of a spoon to thicken broth. Season with salt and pepper. Just before serving, sprinkle with garlic crumbs.

Gourmet, March 2008

Ingredients

• 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 chicken, cut into serving pieces and skinned
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• 1 (14 1/2-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, for garnish
• 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, cut into chiffonade, for garnish
• 1 cup black Nyons or kalamata olives, for garnish

Preparation

Combine the 3/4 cup flour and the salt in a resealable plastic bag. Add the chicken to the bag, several pieces at a time, and shake to coat completely.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the oil. Add the chicken and cook, turning once, for 8 to 10 minutes, until browned on both sides. Using tongs, transfer to paper towels to drain, then arrange in the slow cooker.

Set the sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the onion and the 2 tablespoons flour. Sauté, stirring frequently, for 10 minutes, or until lightly browned. Add the garlic and stir for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and stir to scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Increase the heat to high and add the tomatoes and pepper to taste. Cook, stirring frequently, for 10 to 15 minutes, until some of the tomato liquid evaporates.

Pour the onion mixture over the chicken in the slow cooker. Cover and cook on low for 3 to 8 hours, until the chicken is tender. At 3 to 4 hours, the chicken will still be firm and hold its shape. At 6 to 8 hours, the meat will be falling off the bone.

Divide the chicken among dinner plates and garnish with the parsley, basil, and olives. Serve immediately.

Lynn Alley, Epicurious