Ingredients

• 3 egg yolks
• 2 tbsp. lemon juice, barely warmed
• 8 tbsp. butter, melted
• 1/4 tsp. salt
• dash pepper

Preparation

For hollandaise: Heat the butter to bubbling but not brown and set aside. Put yolks, lemon, salt, and pepper in the blender, and whirl at high speed for 30 seconds. Continue blending as you remove the blender lid and begin to pour in the hot butter, at first very slowly by droplets, then in a steady thin stream. Serve immediately.

For bearnaise: Boil together 1/4 c. dry white wine, 1/4 c. white wine vinegar, 1/2 tsp. dried tarragon, and 1 tbsp. minced onion or scallion until reduced to 2 tbsp. Let cool. Use this 2 tbsp. to replace the lemon juice, and increase the butter to 10-12 tbsp.

Ingredients

For cassoulet:

• 3 medium leeks (white and pale green parts only)
• 4 medium carrots, halved lengthwise and cut into 1-inch-wide pieces
• 3 celery ribs, cut into 1-inch-wide pieces
• 4 garlic cloves, chopped 1/4 cup olive oil
• 4 thyme sprigs
• 2 parsley sprigs
• 1 Turkish or 1/2 California bay leaf
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
• 3 (19-ounce) cans cannellini or Great Northern beans, rinsed and drained
• 1 quart water

For garlic crumbs:

• 4 cups coarse fresh bread crumbs from a baguette
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley

Preparation

Make cassoulet:

Halve leeks lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/2-inch pieces, then wash well and pat dry.

[To add 8 oz. bacon, slice, then fry until fat has rendered. Then add veggies and proceed with the recipe, omitting the 1/4 c. olive oil.]

Cook leeks, carrots, celery, and garlic in oil with herb sprigs, bay leaf, cloves, and 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper in a large heavy pot over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until softened and golden, about 15 minutes. Stir in beans, then water, and simmer, partially covered, stirring occasionally, until carrots are tender but not falling apart, about 30 minutes.

Make garlic crumbs while cassoulet simmers:

Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle.

Toss bread crumbs with oil, garlic, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper in a bowl until well coated. Spread in a baking pan and toast in oven, stirring once halfway through, until crisp and golden, 12 to 15 minutes.

Cool crumbs in pan, then return to bowl and stir in parsley.

Finish cassoulet:

Discard herb sprigs and bay leaf. Mash some of beans in pot with a potato masher or back of a spoon to thicken broth. Season with salt and pepper. Just before serving, sprinkle with garlic crumbs.

Gourmet, March 2008